Saturday, November 22, 2008

Beijing pt 2


The rest of the first day was spent carousing the Olympic Park and exploring other parts of the city. Taking cabs really portrayed how big and spread out the city was, and we quickly learned the subway was the best way to get where we wanted. The city seemed to get more and more clean as we approached the Olympic Park; upon arrival it was pretty obvious we were at the center of modern China.The whole area was tastefully landscaped, and even all the surrounding buildings were impressive. Of course the density of Chinese tourists was unfavorable, but the park is so big and wide open it was hardly noticeable. We paid to go inside the Birds Nest and even got to walk around on the field. The big screen was playing the opening ceremony, and on the field there were displays of the costumes worn during the performance. We wondered when all the 'Beijing 2008' logos would be removed, and the venue be used for events other that a tourist attraction.


We had talked to a number of people about getting to the Great Wall, and read about how it is tricky to find a good way to get there at a good price. It is about 2 hours drive from Beijing's city center that would cost $70 or $80 at least to take a cab. Luckily we spotted that our hostel took trips to various sections, and we were eager to go somewhere other than the touristy part. Even the guidebooks tell horror stories of the tour bus infested 'Badaling' section of the wall. We opted to go to the 'Secret Wall' trip which included a guide, transportation, and lunch for just over $30.
The van, packed full of travelers, left early in the morning and we drove for a good 3 hours. Along the way we picked up our guide (above) and drove pass one of the more popular sections of the wall already packed with people. The van stopped on the side of a dirt road and we got out to just started following our guide. Mike and I were the only ones who could communicate with him, and he was started to get chatty after he found out we could speak Chinese.
It took about 30 minutes to get to the wall, and we hiked along top of it for a good hour. There were no signs or renovation, or even people for that matter. We simply walked along one of the wonders of the world in its original form- we saw no one the entire time. Although we missed the grandeur and perfect photo opportunity, I felt more impressed by seeing the scale of the wall in its ancient form. It made the building process and implications of the wall more real.

After a few hours of hiking our group descended to a village and had our authentic Chinese meal. Many of the travelers had only been in China for just a few days and found the food much more exciting than I; there were still some vegetable dishes I had never seen which I hope to see again. Among the travelers were two 'traveling German carpenters', two Irishmen, a couple from England, and an ex subprime salesman from Lehman Brothers. That night I went out on the city with the latter, mostly on a Lehman severance package's tab. The rest of the trip you'll have to ask me to hear about. I will just leave you with a picture of Beijing's airport, which was almost as impressive as the Bird's Nest. It is the world's biggest airport, and the coolest I have ever seen.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Beijing pt 1

Last weekend Mike and I went to Beijing to see the things one has to see while in China- the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and that picture of Mao above Tienanmen Square. It actually ended up more economical to fly, unless we were to sit 12 hours both ways in hard seats. We flew in pretty late, and got into the Lonely Planet recommended hostel without any troubles. The hostel had a comfortable living room that always had a movie playing, a great kitchen, and was less than a kilometer from Tienanmen Square on a popular hutong. Beijing is famous for its back streets of old houses and shops found throughout the city. It is quite the sensation to see the vast development that has happened and walk behind a few buildings to see people living like it was decades ago.

The next day we decided to stay within the city. Beijing, although the second biggest city in China, seems more spread out than Hangzhou. The roads are wide, the buildings are not too tall, and there is just a comfort of having space. Comfort also comes from it being the most developed city; one can easily tell the city has been scrubbed clean for the Olympics. It does not have the busy, messy, on top of you sensations of Shanghai. Beijing feels modern but has the historic importance and presence to maintain character. I liked Beijing.

We walked through Tienanmen Square, the largest public square in the world, and got the obligatory pictures. At least two or three groups of people asked to take pictures with us.


Right behind Tienanmen Square is the Forbidden city. During the Qing and Ming dynasty royalty would rarely leave its premises, and peasants of course were forbidden to enter. It is a massive complex that would take days to see all on display. There are countless palaces and gardens and courtyards in which the inhabitants would play chess or drink tea or hold meetings. The squares and gates were massive. The entire time inside reminded me of how prosperous China has been, and its extravagence reminds me of its recent efforts in the Olympics.
After the forbidden city we went to a recommened resturaunt to eat the famous Peking Duck. While looking for it we were approached my a pair of women trying to 'practice their English' who insisted our destination was miles away and we should eat at their place. Once we got rid of them we found it right around the corner. Peking duck is a whole duck roasted, and then sliced in front of you. You are given garlic, a sweet sauce, and thin pancakes to roll it all up in. The result is quite tasty, and is the definitive specialty of Beijing.